Day 1: Lillesand

I fly direct into Oslo for a change - there's a daily flight from Newark. It's not the cheapest, but at this point in my life I don't know how much more I can handle of Heathrow, especially with so much luggage. The camera is a large backpack that just squeaks in as cabin baggage, and the tripod is a fairly heavy steel affair. Then there's lightly-packed clothing for seven days, a film changing tent, a digital camera (which will provide most of the shots you see here), and a couple of books to help me pass the inevitable interminable waits.

I spend three days near Lillesand with my family. It's super restful; swimming in the fjord, painting the house, generally taking it easy. Wish it could have been longer. Mia calls her third cousin's friend Gunnar (who she has never met) to ask for hotel recommendations in Kirkenes; he refuses, and insists that I stay with his family.

So I hop back on the bus to Oslo, to spend one night with my cousin and his friends. It stays light til about 11. We go to bed at 4am; get up at 8 to catch my flight north. Here goes.